Cavolo nero (literally Italian for “black cabbage”) shows up in Tuscan kitchens from late autumn through early spring. Unlike curly kale, the long puckered leaves hold their shape under heat — making this the right choice for ribollita, soups that simmer for hours, and pastas that benefit from a green that doesn’t dissolve.

Strip the leaves from the woody central rib before cooking. Massage with olive oil and salt for raw salads; otherwise braise, sauté, or simmer until just tender. Younger leaves taste sweeter; older leaves develop a pleasant bitter edge that pairs beautifully with garlic, anchovy, and good olive oil.